|My home for the Last 10 years other than the Van.|
|A summit shot from the top of rainier on may 27th Summit Climb with RMI .|
This made for my 14th expedition to Denali. The trip was run through Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. with a super crew of guides Erick Frank and young gun Logan Randolph. The group was a wonderful group of gentlemen from throughout the US and two kind Canadians from Quebec and New Brunswick.
The trips on Denali always starts well before the go date, compiling a mountain of gear, goose feathers, and lunch food for 20 days, one hundred pounds in the duffels, plus a carry on with twenty-five pounds. Not sure how I'll get it up but here we go. I departed on a midday flight to AK, landing in Anchorage, meeting the guide boys and enjoying a pizza. We meet the crew around 4 and pack the 11man Team in a Denali overland shuttle and depart North toward Wasilla for a last minuet food shop before arriving in the quant drinking village of Talkeetna. A day of packing, prepping, and rigging for our flight from K2 Avation Otter Ski Plane. The Timing and weather were on for us we got our park briefing and departed with our kit on time and arrive to the glaciers of Denali by 10:30 am on the 31st of May. The trip is Now up to us and our mountain skills; to safely climb and descend in good style.
|Part of the Denali 12' Crew|
As the snow settled from the prop wash of or departing air craft we organized to head out in the afternoon as the temp were cool and the glacier still firm and supportive. Our pack up and departure from base camp were flawless. The only thing not working was the wight of close to 110lbs each dragging us up to 7,800ft. Five hours of walking and two hours of camp set up and we were already functioning as a cohesive team.
|Living in Luxury 7,800|
|Nice view from our porch at 11camp|
|Eric Frank showing that puppy how we dance. My that is a nice top hat you have.|
|The crew actively resting on a jane to the edge of the world in Genet Basin 20 min from 14 camp.|
|Our dig out at 14 with Big Denali in the mist|
|Fast forward I had a lot on my mind and now were at the Summit Ridge on a blue bird day.|
|Summit #9 Denali|
|Our bad boys. The 2012 crew|
|My Man Larry and I holding the vintage cigar from Ben Alverez. Cheers From Us!|
|Oh what a cutie little boy Its Logan Randolph On his first trip to the top of NA Super strong work little brother!|
|Down the pig hill we go with the proud North summit watching us.|
|The crown of North America visited and a safe decent ahead.|
|Down the buttress from high camp|
The climb down from high camp got under way after 3 hr effort to excavate the tents and button up the gear. We enjoyed light wind and clear skies on the most picturesque part of the west buttress climb making good time we descended to 14 camp and are greeted to Jakes's camp which provide a hot snack, water, and our cache dug out and on the surface. Praises JB. Sorting our equipment for the cache we split the group equipment and descend around windy corner to 11k camp just in time for heavy snow to start falling and the wind to rage for the better part of the next 18hrs keeping us in a holding pattern until a break in the afternoon saw us packing for the final five hour stretch to base camp.
|Snow storm layover at 11camp on the decent allowed us to enjoy some pancakes, just like my grandpa made them.|
|Back to the other world....|
|The experiences in the Alaska Range never get old and Ill be back again next spring.|
In Talkeetna we unpack and dry the kit before heading for a pizza fest for lunch and then some down time to shower contact the family and eat more. The Crew reunited for a final celebration dinner at Denali Brewing Co fallowed by a unforgettable trip to the river in talkeetna for a sunset view of Denali and Certificate presentation. Most importantly we went to the river to reflect, tell stories of our experience, and enjoy each others friendship new and old.
We just could not part each other until after the team drove back to anchorage airport said our final good buys. I would like to thank to each individual on this expedition in was a true pleasure climbing with you all. Hope we can all climb again soon.
|Back to Green!|